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Post by shootmyface on Sept 11, 2011 21:49:32 GMT -5
So I decided to upgrade my EBR I had at OP Phoenix and make it a true DMR. I got a High Torque gear set, m145 spring, 6.03 tightbore and droped it all in. I checked the shimming to see smooth movement and no wiggle of the gears and put the mech box back together. I plugged it in before putting it back in the gun to give it a test and it started to move the gears for a second then it stopped. Now all I get is a clicking sound where the motor wants to turn.
Any clues? Thanks in advance
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Post by Stickem1 on Sept 12, 2011 7:43:39 GMT -5
Need a bigger battery to get thing moving. the battery does not have enought behind it to get it to cycle.
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Post by cutlasslord on Sept 12, 2011 14:31:46 GMT -5
Also might need a high torque motor to pull that big of a spring even with the torque gears. I'd recommend a Systema Magnum though there are cheaper alternatives that will work as well like G&G High Torque. Just make sure you get the right shaft length. I think V7 gear boxes use short type but verify that before you spend money. That's what my G&G M14 uses but it's different than TM style V7s.
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Post by shootmyface on Sept 13, 2011 21:26:53 GMT -5
It looks like it might be the motor since the 8.4 and the 9.6 batts that I have made the motor jump in the bracket but not get the gears spinning. Moving, moving, moving, I need to get those gears moving... airsoft. Sorry had a "Raw hide" moment there. Anyway thanks for your input.
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Post by Stickem1 on Sept 13, 2011 22:30:38 GMT -5
How many amps are the battery?, are they 1500 to 2200? If they are jump the juice. 3000 range + unless it's a lipo. Check if the motor turns easy or a little tough. Easy = speed, harder to spin = torque
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Post by cutlasslord on Sept 14, 2011 5:02:26 GMT -5
It could also be as simple as your spring is stuck back and you need to release the tension on it and let the motor start pulling from top dead center. A lot of times the motor needs to take a running start to pull the spring back when you're running >M120 springs.
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Post by shootmyface on Sept 14, 2011 11:19:02 GMT -5
Correction it is a 135 spring, the batts are 1500 mah. The spring was fully extended, are you suggesting that the piston should be back a little to give the gears and motor a little head start? Also I noted that the new spring is 1/2 in longer than the old.
On a side note I put power to the motor when it was not hooked to the mech box and I saw that there were sparks (like arcing) on the back side ( not the end with the gear) on the bearing. Is this normal or the resault of a cheap motor?
Thanks for the suggestions so far.
Dan
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Post by cutlasslord on Sept 14, 2011 15:55:12 GMT -5
The piston should be all the way to the front of the gear box to have minimum spring tension before you try to shoot.
Some internal arcing at the back of the motor is common. Most electric motors do that. Honestly your best bet is a stronger motor. a Systema Magnum or G&G High Torque would pull that spring fine with a 1500 mah 9.6.
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Post by Shampoo on Sept 18, 2011 18:20:08 GMT -5
Shootmyface, The problem is the motor and battery. Cutlasslord and I have been dealing with gun upgrades for a LONG time. Flat out, an 8.4 1500mah will NOT pull an M135, so matter what you do. Not even in LiPo. a 9.6V LiPo may do it, if the planets all align. Either way, even if these batteries would pull it, your battery life would be ridiculously low. My suggestion, a 10.4 or 11.1V NiCd or LiPo, respectively.
I'm glad you checked the shimming on the gearbox... a lot of people overlook that. I'm a big ICS T3000 motor. Time and time again, it has proven itself, brentk7 (if he checks this at all) or any of the other vets on the team can attest to this fact. Systema motors, I'm not too familiar with, but I'd bet that Caleb (culasslord) can point you in a direction there. The suggested G&G motor would definitely live up to Caleb's suggestion. And if you get the bigger battery (which I suggest so you don't have to run out of juice mid-game) would prove to be a powerful ally and increase you ROF significantly.
I completely agree with Caleb's above post in all facets. With a bigger battery and motor, piston position is not really that critical, but if you can get a fully, or even partially compressed piston in a gearbox during assembly, I'll be thoroughly impressed, and I've been playing airsoft for 12 years, so please.... take a picture, because I think I've seen it all hahaha.
Best of luck my friend. I don't check this often, so listen to Caleb, he knows probably more than I do.
Good work Caleb!
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Post by cutlasslord on Sept 18, 2011 20:06:29 GMT -5
ICS T3000 is a good cheaper alternative as well. I've got one in my King Arms M4. Real solid motor. I haven't ran one with above an M120 yet though but I've always been very pleased with them. Couple it with a good battery and it should get you going for less than $100. Cheap Battery Packs.com should have a battery solution for you for a very reasonable price. I've only been doing this since '05. You've still got some time on me Greg.  |
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Post by shootmyface on Dec 12, 2011 20:08:08 GMT -5
Thanks for all the input. I just got back from being TDY for a few months and just got the motor (T3000 short) installed and the battery (11.1v LIPO). It spins like a charm. Cant wait to break it out at a game.
Dan
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